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Today's Wine:

2013 Château Moulin de Taffard

2013 Château Moulin de Taffard Médoc, Bordeaux, France *Direct Import


 
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Today's Wine Comments:
Cellarthief

On the banks of the Gironde and just up the road from Cos d’Estournel and Monstrose sits an historic château that’s home to a killer bargain red Bordeaux. The grapes that go into its making (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and a touch of Cabernet Franc) are planted on the same limestone-rich terroir as those star chateaux. But unlike many of the top names in St. Estephe and Pauillac, this over achiever was made by a family of farmers—real down-to-earth working stiffs. No millionaires or multinational companies behind this find.

Vigneron Sebastien Payruse and his sister Laure run the estate, which produces one grand vin a year—the Château Tour Castillon, which is a favorite among the cognoscenti of Bordeaux and in Paris—and one second wine, the earlier peaking Moulin de Taffard. Pretty much a non-name on this side of the pond, Payruse refuses to follow the dogmatic traditions of this native region, looking to Burgundy and the Phone for inspiration, and both his first wine and his Taffard are supple, fruit-forward but classic reds made for the table and for unaffected enjoyment. This second wine is made from younger vines, all estate grown. A tailor-made, long fermentation in temperature controlled tanks precedes maturation for one year in barrique, and the wine is released after a further rest in bottle.

In 2013 Mother Nature winnowed the production of most Bordeaux estates, and what remained was something truly special—evidenced in this little novelty, the brainchild of an authentic talent, a fortunately situated vineyard and a limited but exciting vintage.

Four reasons we love it:

  • For classic bistro dishes like French onion soup and steak frites there is no better wine to match than an equally simple and straightforward red Bordeaux. This one from Moulin de Taffard is made to go with foods and will really shine with rich, buttery dishes and rare red meat.
  • While many Bordeaux chateaux require a decade or more before drinking at their prime, this 2013 is ready to go out the gate.
  • Cru Bourgeois appellation, an AOC that is finally getting some attention by the press. Wine ReviewOnline writes: “The Cru Bourgeois properties have been known, somewhat derisively as “petit chateaux.” Indeed, the only thing “petit” about them is their price.”
  • Rather than using insecticide, ground covering that naturally repels predators and pests is encouraged to grow between the vines.

 

 

Its nose is toasted with toasted bread, developing notes of Its nose is toasted with toasted bread, developing notes of black fruits. The attack remains very round, well balanced, declining on a smoky note with rich tannins and elegant. The final gourmet binds notes of bread crust, and very ripe red fruits.

 

The family property has been held for 3 generations, with over 35 acres of vineyards around its cellars. Its soil is located on the only gravelly crust of the Medoc whose base bathes in the estuary. The vineyard planted on the hillside overlooks the river at the foot of the ruins of the old English fort, which once defended access to the port of Bordeaux.

This wine pairs with beef, venison, lamb and poultry.

We suggest pairing this soft and ready 2013 Chateau Moulin de Taffard with a savory chargrilled steak, like this.

 

 

 

Wine Ratings

92 Insider Points

Wine Reviews

This 2015 Medoc is rich in plum, cassis and smooth tannin, with notes of graphite, spice box and tobacco leaf.  The palate really opens up with 15 minutes of air, I’d recommend some time in the decanter and you should be able to enjoy this wine through 2022. - DZ Jul 2017

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